Winter Sea

materials

Yarn

Approximately 390 yards / 356 meters worsted weight yarn.

Yarn Shown

Madelinetosh Tosh Vintage (100% superwash merino; 200 yards/182 meters per 100 grams), 1.9 skeins in Opaline

Needles

US 7 (4.5 mm)

Gauge

20 sts and 30 rows per 4 in/10 cm, stockinette stitch.

Notions

split-ring marker

darning needle

Finished sizes

One: 53.25 in / 135.3 cm wingspan; 19 in / 48.3 cm deepest point

An asymmetrically shaped shawl that's surprisingly easy to wear with a delicate drape for style.

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Winter Sea

An asymmetrically shaped shawl that's surprisingly easy to wear with a delicate drape for style.

designed by Liz Abinante

Pattern notes

Construction

Knit from the bottom up, the shawl has increases incorporated into the stitch motif. With the right side facing, the shawl increases once every other row along the left edge and once every row along the right edge.


Gauge

There is a very large difference between the finished item before and after blocking, both in size and drape. Be sure to check your gauge: you want a loose fabric, not a tight one, and if your gauge is too tight the shawl will not lay very well.

Modifications

This is my favorite kind of shawl: it's done when you say it's done. You can keep knitting until it has reached the size you want, or you run out of yarn, and you can knit it in any yarn weight you wish. The instructions are more of a template than a pattern, don't feel restricted by the yarn weight or size I've knit for myself.

Finished size

If you have more yarn, you can continue working in pattern until the shawl reaches your desired size, ending on Row 8 or 16 of the Chevon motif.

Yarn weight

To work with a different yarn weight, select a needle that produces a loose gauge (typically the largest needle size recommended for the yarn).

Instructions

Set up

CO 9 sts.

Throughout the entire pattern: odd-numbered rows are RS rows, even-numbered rows are WS rows.

Row 1:
kfb, p7, kfb.
Row 2:
k1, p1, k7, p1. kfb.
Row 3:
kfb, k3, p5, k2, kfb. Place split-ring marker to indicate RS.
Row 4:
k1, p3, k5, p3, k1, kfb.
Row 5:
kfb, p1, k5, p3, k4, kfb.
Row 6:
k1, p5, k3, p5, k2, kfb.
Row 7:
kfb, k1, p1, k7, p1, k6, kfb.
Row 8:
k1, (p7, k1) twice, p2, kfb.

Body

Row 1:
pfb, *k7, p1, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k3, kfb.
Row 2:
p5, k1, *p7, k1, repeat from * to last st, kfb.
Row 3:
kfb, p3, *k5, p3, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k3, kfb.
Row 4:
*p5, k3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p1, kfb.
Row 5:
kfb, k1, p5, *k3, p5, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k3, kfb.
Row 6:
k2, *p3, k5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p2, kfb.
Row 7:
kfb, p1, *k1, p7, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k1, p2, kfb.
Row 8:
k4, *p1, k7, repeat from * to last 4 sts, p1, k2, kfb.
Row 9:
kfb, *p7, k1, repeat from * to last 8 sts, p7, kfb.
Row 10:
k1, *p1, k7, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p1, kfb.
Row 11:
kfb, *k3, p5 to last 3 sts, k2, kfb.
Row 12:
k1, p3, *k5, p3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k1, kfb.
Row 13:
kfb, p1, *k5, p3, repeat from * to last 5 sts, k4, kfb.
Row 14:
k1, p5, *k3, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2, kfb.
Row 15:
kfb, k1, p1, *k7, p1, repeat from * to last 7 sts, k6, kfb.
Row 16:
k1, *p7, k1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p2, kfb.

Repeat Body Rows 1–16 7 times more. Remove split-ring marker from RS on last repeat.

Finishing

BO all sts and block gently.

abbreviations

BO
bind off
CO
cast on
k
knit
kfb
knit through the front and back
m
marker
m1p
make one purl
m1l
make one left
m1r
make one right
p
purl
pfb
purl through the front and back loop
pm
place marker
rpt
repeat
sl
slip
slm
slip marker
sts
stitches

Photos

Pattern version

Information

Current version: 1 (January 4, 2015)